Jesus Christ, Rio Superstar
First on the agenda today was to take the tram up to Corcovado, the Statue of Jesus.
We got to the station at 8:20 and already the lines of tour groups were long. The first train that had any available seats was 9:40 but our guide did the old schmooze routine, sweet-talked the women, and found us two seats on the 8:40 train.
Located on the top of Morro do Corcovado, the monument is the best known Brazilian image in the world. Every year more than 600 thousand people are brought to Statue of Christ by the centenary Corcovado’s railway, the oldest tour of the country.
The Corcovado’s railway was the first electrified railway in Brazil. Inaugurated in 1884, is older than the Christ monument itself. Incidentally, the train was that, for four consecutive years, carried the pieces of the Christ.
The station of Corcovado’s train is one of the oldest and most beautiful buildings of Cosme Velho and that’s why is registered as city patrimony by the Cultural Heritage.
The first illustrious passenger to climb to the Morro do Corcovado’s train was Dom Pedro II, emperor of Brazil – which inaugurated the Railway on October 9, 1884. The train, then steam, was considered a miracle of engineering by run 3824 meters to go railway line in a completely steep terrain.
Today, to further enhance the safety of travel, the railroad uses Riggenbach, where a third wheel rack serves as the moving train.
In 1910, the steam trains were replaced by electrical machines and more recently in 1979, when the Esfeco took control of the railroad, were brought from Swiss models most modern and secure.
After Dom Pedro II, many distinguished visitors also traveled in the Corcovado’s train. In 1934, the train had a visit from then secretary of the Vatican State, Eugenio Pacelli. Five years later, Pacelli became Pope Pius XII.
The Father of Aviation, Santos Dumont, was also an assiduous frequenter of the Corcovado train. According to reports of former drivers, he always rose to the top with his characteristic hat collapsing, gave good tips and, on occasion, asked to drive the train. The ex-presidents Getúlio Vargas and Epitácio person were also frequent passengers.
In 1980, it was the turn of Pope John Paul II and, like him, also made the trip the scientist Albert Einstein, King Albert of Belgium and Princess Diana.
Today early was hazy so the photos are washed out, but for us in person, nonetheless utterly amazing. 360 degree views, down to Ipanema Beach, into the horse track oval and beyond, out to the bay. The last two looking at Sugar Loaf.
The Rio’s postcard of 98 feet had its cornerstone launched in 1922 and the inauguration on October 12, 1931.
The Statue of Christ, symbol of the city of Rio de Janeiro, was elected as one of New 7 Wonders of the World, in voting conducted by the Internet and by mobile phone messages, organized by the New 7 Wonders Foundation, of Switzerland, between 21 participants of monuments the entire planet.
And the choice was deserved. From the top of its 98 feet with a 26 foot pedestal – 2330 feet above sea level – the Christ is the image of faith and sympathy of the people of Rio and complete in 2007, 76 years. Since the year 2000, when it received new lighting, the statue and the accesses have been going through a process of revitalization. The high point was the opening of the mechanized access in 2002, with panoramic elevators and escalators. Thus, it will no longer be necessary to climb up the 220 steps to the foot of the statue.
The Statue of Christ now has three panoramic elevators, each with a capacity for 14 people. Access is through an area that serves both visitors who arrive by car as those who arrive by train on the platform of the Railway of Corcovado. It was also built metal walkways, supported by another structure, approximately four meters wide and four escalators, with traffic capacity of 9 thousand people per hour. The trip starts there, because the tower of 90 feet high, will uncover the first sight of the city. To finally get to the statue, four escalators were installed.
And even before coming to Christ, visitors can get to know a bit about the history of the postcard. The Cosme Velho Station, fully revitalized, has turned into an atmosphere of leisure and entertainment modern and comfortable. A new boarding area and shops were built to support tourism, VIP rooms and an auditorium. The big highlight is the Cultural Area, where we can see the entire rich history of the Railroad and the Monument.
This is What We SHOULD Be Doing This Morning……But We’re Not!
Our guide is meeting us at 8am (ten minutes) for a full day out and about Rio, including the famous Sugar Loaf Mountain tramway (yippee, another tram, my favorite!), and a zillion other items on our list.
It’s already nearly 85 degrees so we have lots of water, sunglasses, the camera and extra battery – more tonight!
Testing Our Gastronomic Bravery Level
Street food carts (tables) are all up and down the Rio avenues. Today, right before we entered the park to Ipanema Beach, there were two women selling food.
This one had hot dogs with all the fixings. And the line was long. We couldn’t see all the add-ons, but it looked like olives, chick peas, rice…..but rice on a hot dog? That’s a new one on me.
It looked delicious, but we passed, giving ourselves a ZERO on the food bravery level. But with twenty-nine more days in South America, we decided to be cautious on day one.
We did think about buying a local lottery ticket though. Long lines there too.
How much is 19 million Real? A cool $11,138,200.17 USD. I could do that.
There’s a Thong in My Heart
Thinking Copa Beach seemed so crowded, after lunch at a local hangout (but breakfast for our bodies, still on USA time, three hours behind Rio time), we…..
….strolled over to Ipanema Beach. Shocked to see the sheer mass of humanity, rather than renting an umbrella and chair, we strolled along Avienda Vieira Souto to take in the sights….and people. We are in the land of the thong bathing suit and our personal opinion is that more women who shouldn’t be wearing the thong are. Mind you, it’s a tad awkward zooming a camera lens at a woman’s behind, but I suppose the locals are used to tourists aiming their camera every which way.
Pass the Ban de Soleil 15, Please
Flight down to Rio was pretty easy, long, almost 9 hours, but manageable. A quick twenty-minute ride into town to check in to the hotel, regroup, and post our first photo.
Copacabana Beach. Our driver said this is a vacation week so there is more than the usual sea of humanity on the beach.
Sugarloaf Mountain in the back, right
Ipanema Beach is right behind us and once we regroup and change into clothes more suiting the near 90 degree temps, we’ll be out and about for the rest of the day.
Próxima Parada, Rio
Bags are packed, bought local currency….
….and remembered the OTHER “Don’t Leave Home Without It” item!! Here’s hoping the box comes home unopened!! 
It’ll probably be Wednesday afternoon by the time we get settled enough to post photos. Hope you will follow along with us as we wend our way through Brazil and Argentina, with a quick hop across the border into Uruguay.
Cass Gilbert of Ridgefield, Connecticut
One of America’s important architects and one-time summer resident of Ridgefield, Cass Gilbert designed some of today’s most noted buildings, but he had some roots in Ridgefield.
The Cass Gilbert Society website says:
In 1907, the same year Cass was elected president of the American Institute of Architects, the Gilberts purchased a country house in Ridgefield, Connecticut. It was known as the Cannonball House because of a cannonball lodged in one corner from a Revolutionary War battle. Gilbert designed a special garden and garden house for Julia. The house was sold in 1957 by their daughter Emily. Today it is known as the Keeler Tavern Museum and is open to the public.
Julia was involved in many community events in New York City and Ridgefield. She was co-founder of the Ridgefield Garden Club. Her work also included charitable organizations and relief work that helped French children during World War I and the Architects Emergency Relief Fund that assisted unemployed architects during the depression.
The Garden House:
The sign on the Keeler Tavern property explaining that the last private owner of Keeler’s Tavern was Cass Gilbert a very famous architect. Mr. Gilbert and his wife Julia bought the Keeler Tavern in 1907 to be there summer home. They owned it until 1957. Many New York City families had summer homes in Ridgefield in that era. Publishing magnets like Doubleday and notable artists such as Frederick Remington summered here at one time. Click photo to enlarge to learn lots more about how he was a famous “starchitect”.
This is the house next door. Cass Gilbert built to house his papers, to be a museum and collection of his work. That didn’t happen and today it is a private home.
The barn Mr. Gilbert built in the back of the Keeler Tavern. It is an historic placqued building.
Ridgefield: First National Bank & Trust
Now a Wells Fargo bank, this classic brick building sits in all its glory, to the point of almost being able to see the wealthy Ridgefield residents of 1900 walking in to make a deposit. Thanks to the preservationists of Connecticut who saw to keep buildings like this from the demolition ball.
Sound Beacher captured the essence of the building perfectly, with the second, third, and fourth photos here.
Ridgefield, Connecticut, Part Three
Picking up where we left off, Sound Beacher and I continue our stroll along Main Street. Remember, the photographs represent the eye of both of us.
The centerpiece of Ridgefield is the 1896 Lounsbury House.
There were two Connecticut governors from Ridgefield who were brothers. Phineas Lounsbury was the 53rd governor and George Lounsbury, the 58th. Phineas built this stately home in 1896, using plans from the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair Connecticut Pavilion. It took 12 indoor staff and 14 grounds keepers to maintain it. Today it is the Community Center and available for parties!
Crossing the street, to the west side, we came upon more beautiful historic homes.
The intricate detailing, so pretty, but time is catching up with some obvious wood rot.
A bullseye window glass paneled door
Such different styles of architecture. A yellow garage that matches the yellow house.
King Homestead, 1894
Patriot’s Way
Plaqued house
The Hoyt House
The Hoyt house from afar
Cuba: The Hemingway House
Last in the series from Cuba by my sister.
Ernest Hemingway went to Cuba in 1928 where he wrote the first chapters of “For Whom The Bell Tolls” from the Ambos Mundos Hotel in Havana.
He was forced to leave Cuba by the American ambassador in 1961 and his home, Finca Vigia (Farm Lookout) was nationalized by the Cuban government shortly thereafter. The house sits untouched since Hemingway’s departure.
Our guide told us that there were over 9,000 books in the home. Some even in the bathroom!
Books in the bathroom
Hemingway’s cat killed a lizard and Hemingway decided to preserve it!
Hemingway's Tower writing office
Hemingway’s boat, Pilar, sitting on the remains of the tennis court
A Month is a Very Long Time To Go Between Laundry Days
Packing 101 for any trip: bring clothes that don’t wrinkle but more importantly clothes that are easily hand-washed at night. We are prepared, like good Girl and Boy Scouts we once were.
Packets of Tide for the sink. But if you don’t want to carry soap powder that can spill open, the Laundry Sheets are simple and good too. Just add water to one and voila, instant suds.
And our personal favorite travel laundry tool, the Flexo-Line, a clothesline that hangs anywhere, no clothespins are needed so it won’t snag my delicates!
Cuba: Havana
Fifth in a series by my sister.
Images of Che are EVERYWHERE… on t-shirts, posters, graffiti, books. It seems that in the 1970s when Mao created a cult of personality around himself, the Cuban communist party decreed that no monuments would ever be erected to a living person and all images in Cuba are hence, of Che.
In the gift shop in our hotel, the ONLY books that were for sale, on a rather large rack, were either written by or about Fidel or Che. NOTHING else!!
Bookstalls on the Plaza des Armas
These second-hand book stalls sell predominantly revolutionary material in several languages. There are also vintage trinkets and American coins for sale and an occasional Hemingway book or art book at some stalls.
The period following the collapse of Communism in Russia and the loss of all Soviet support to Cuba was the worst period in Cuban history since Columbus arrived and began exterminating the Indian population. There was no food, hospitals were closed and Cuban society became broken into a kaleidoscope of different languages.
In the period from 1990-1994 after the Russians pulled out, there were no food, no cars and overnight they had nothing.
In 1991 the government allowed the freedom to practice religion. Catholicism and Santeria (based on an African tradition) are the most prevalent.
By 1995, they began to allow foreign investment in tourism, allowed corporations to lease land from the government, reopened some farmers markets and allowed for the creation of the “paladar”… a restaurant that could operate in a private home. To that point, all Cuban restaurants were government-controlled. There is a concern now in the Cuban government about what to do if the successful paladars begin to make a lot of money and the owners begin to accumulate wealth.
In 1994, Havana came close to staging an uprising, not of political dissidents, but demonstrations by the average, ordinary citizens who were frustrated at having nothing. It was during this period that there were large numbers of Cuban boat people trying to get to America. If you walked on the Malecon, you would see people building boats as the Cuban government finally said that anyone who wants to go could go.
It was at this point that Clinton eased the immigration agreement and allowed remittances from Cuban Americans to their families in Cuba to ease the economic hardships. By 1996, the economy started to improve.
In 2003 there were still power blackouts and in 2012, during our stay, there were a few blackouts at our Havana hotel and at the hotel out on the beach in Varadero.
Under the Bush sanctions in 2003, Cuba forbid the U.S. dollar to circulate. Today you can bring U.S. dollars to Cuba, but you will pay a steep (13.5%) penalty on converstion. It is best to bring euros or Canadian dollars.
When the U.S. maintained an Embassy in Cuba, there was a period when we would disseminate information from an electronic billboard on the outside of the building. In response, the Cuban government erected 138 flagpoles in the plaza directly in front of the Embassy and when they raised the flags the messages were blocked.
The United States still maintains a U.S. Interest Section Office in this building. Long lines are a daily occurrence for Cubans to apply for an interview for a visa to emigrate. Those interviews are scheduled for the year 2015.
The statue at the end of the plaza, of Jose Marti holding a child and pointing an accusatory finger, is to represent the U.S. “terrorist” actions in “kidnapping” Elian Gonzalez.
Women Buying Bushels of Oysters!
My unscientific research today while out and about running errands has concluded:
All Men Bring Flowers Home
To a one, every man I saw today had flowers in his hand. Some flowers and candy. Some flowers, candy and balloons. But all had flowers, from the Korean market or the supermarket, all nice-looking. Going to be some happy wives tonight.
Women Go for the Aphrodisiac Effect
The fish market was MOBBED today, all women. I bought sushi. Sorry honey.
Finally, Someone ELSE Noticed This!
Since Snowtober, a piece of a tree branch has been stuck in the power lines over a major road in Bedford Hills. I’ve noticed it since the day of the storm, Halloween, been meaning to stop and take photos of it, but never got around to doing that.
Well today, in true union fashion, five ConEdison men were standing under the piece of branch, staring up. Oh to be a fly on the tree to hear that conversation.
No, you go.
No you.
Not my job.
Get Joe, he’s new.
I’ll go back in a couple of days to see if it is gone. You wonder what made them finally take care of this? I bet someone called. If it had fallen, it would have landed on a pedestrian. That road has a sidewalk that is used often for people going from Mount Kisco to Bedford Hills. Stay tuned.
I Hate When This Happens
I came back from Delaware on fumes, not in the mood to stop, especially considering I got caught in a fluke snow blizzard. Total white-out conditions. The roads were white, the sky was white and it was nearly impossible to distinguish one from the other. It was also hard to tell if the road was slick, so many drivers were braking, nearly causing a pile-up. The last thing I wanted to do is take longer to get home so I forged ahead.
But I paid the price today, literally and figuratively, by having to buy gasoline very near to my house.
I had a choice of brands: Gouge or Bend Over, so I took Gouge.
My car was very very very thirsty. Sigh.
